Ducati ST FAQ

Leah was the daughter of Walter Oliver – a contributor to the FAQ, a father, a husband and ST2 owner. Walter’s red 2000 model ST2 now has a name: “LEO”, for “Leah Elizabeth Oliver”. Some words from Walter appear below the photographs.

“It’s been a year since that surreal day of September 11, 2001. The passage of time has not made it any easier to deal with the senseless loss of our beautiful Leah, or to speak about her in the past tense—to know that I won’t again see that wonderful smile or that cute wink in my doorway for the remainder of my time on this earth.

For a time we shared one of my passions – motorcycling. We’d head out on beautiful Sunday mornings to tour the countryside of northeastern New Jersey and up into New York State. We had an intercom on the bike that allowed us to share our thoughts about the ride as we passed interesting things along the way. We both enjoyed the way motorcycling or even driving a convertible with the top down can make you a more active participant in the modern mechanical world – closer to the smells and textures of the outdoors. We felt so free. She was a wonderful passenger and it was always my pleasure to have her along—on the road, as well as in my life.”

1 Introduction

1.1 About the FAQ

This FAQ was constructed to assist both existing and potential owners of one the finest series of Sport Touring motorcycles ever built. This document covers the Ducati ST2, ST4, ST4s, ST4s ABS and ST3.

The first draft of this document was created on the 20^th July 2001 by Perry Rosenboom, with the essential assistance of the members of the YahooGroups ST2 Owners List.

Special thanks go to Stephen Gendle for creating the ST2 Owners list, and for his input, feedback and assistance. Thanks also go to the many contributors, and those who gave permission for extracts of their personal web sites to be used in this document. These people are acknowledged in section 1.1.2

The format is a bit different from conventional FAQs, which have a question-and-answer structure. Instead, we’ve taken things which you want to know and put in more of a referency style. This means that we can sneakily add in things which aren’t “frequently asked” but which we think you ought to know anyway!

Q: “Hey, why aren’t there any pictures in this?”

A: “Because the Author wanted a detailed document which could be loaded quickly from a web site. Where necessary, links are provided for pictures or further information.”

This is your FAQ, so please email ducati_st_faq@bike-gizmos.com with additions, corrections or queries.

1.1.1 Revision History

Version	Posted Date	Updater	Comment
0.0	20^th July, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Original draft document, compiled from information on the ST2 Owners List.
0.1	7^th September, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	First published draft
0.2	8^th September, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Cleaned up some formatting. Incorporated some liSTer feedback
0.3	10^th September, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Added section “What to look for when buying a used Duc”
0.4	23^rd September, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Added heaps of new info - too much to list!
0.5	24^th September, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Updated table of contents and formatting
0.6	4^th October, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Various things - reduced the file size, released a PDF version
0.7	12^th October, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Extra tips in a few areas, and a couple of corrections
0.8	12^th November, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Added Trivia section. Included ScottOiler info, and updated lots of other bits
0.9	14^th December, 2001	Perry Rosenboom	Lots of things from clever people!
1.0	30^th August, 2002	Perry Rosenboom	Major update and many items added – accumulated from feedback over 6 months.
1.0a	30^th August, 2002	Perry Rosenboom	Corrected an error in the credits!
1.1	2^nd September, 2002	Perry Rosenboom	Added a few other gems I found which should have gone into 1.0
1.2	11^th September, 2002	Perry Rosenboom	Dedication added in memory of Leah, and many others who died a year ago
1.3	13^th June, 2004	Perry Rosenboom	Updated various bits – it’s been a while!
1.4	4^th May, 2005	Perry Rosenboom Robert Mohns	A big update, because it’s been so long (sorry!). In this edition I’ve included the supplemental FAQ compiled by Robert Mohns from the ST_Owners list.

1.1.2 Credits

The information within this Ducati ST Frequently Ask Questions (FAQ) is given in good faith and the authors, contributors, YahooGroups ST Owners List members, and those listed below or anywhere else in this document are not liable in anyway to advice given or taken from its content, or for any modifications carried out according to information contained herein.

The following people are known to have contributed to this FAQ, in no particular order! If I’ve forgotten to include you, then let me know! This table is now sorted by name, just so I don’t offend anyone!

Whodunnit?	Waffor?	Wotseride?
Alain Borie	Electrical tip
Brad	Providing info on the Dzus fasteners	01 ST4
Chris Kirk	Various bits as acknowledged through this document, and another great ST site.	ST2
Dan C	Various bits, including aftermarket exhaust mounting warning. Supplied some info on brake pads.	01 ST4
Dave Harhay	Provided a list of changes between the ST4s of 2003 and 2003	ST4s
David Harvey	Some information was used (with permission) from David’s excellent web site.	97 ST2 92 Superlight 88 Paso
David Porter	Info in the 907ie and Paso
Denis St. Amand	Feedback on various things	98 ST2 (Black)
Douglas Kendall	Providing info on Singapore delivered models, and other bits	98 ST2
Duncan Sargeant	Feedback on various items	98 ST2
Eric Schneider	Info on upgrading and cleaning the headlight
Fariborz	Info on all sorts of things. A great contributor to the list and one of the Dzus gurus! Thanks Desmobee!
Garry	Extensive research on the fastest color for an ST
Ian Deary	Felt sorry for him, ‘cause his bike wouldn’t start, so thought he deserved a mention!	00 ST2
Ian Ellis	Provided feedback on a whole bunch of areas, scattered throughout. Provided some painting tips	'00 ST2 blue (no name)
James	Tips on checking belt tension
John Clifton	Tip on removing sponginess from the brakes. Advice on fixing a running problem.	98 ST4
John Dean	Tip on checking the thermostat
John Stockwell	Some tips for Ian!
John Swiatek	For a great description of why the standard starter motor wiring sucks! Info on dual plug kits, and socket and plugs
Justin Berth	Headlight fairing refitting instructions Steering lock adjustment tip Sprocket clip info Air filter info Vee Two clutch info	97 ST2
Kman	Instructions on rear panel removal
Kyle Kirschenmann	Various pearls, spread throughout this document	97 ST2 01 ST4
Mark Trbojevic	Advice on clutch groan, clutch kit replacement	02 ST4s
Mark Whitfield	Info on fitting adjustable levers
Mark Willburger	Provided tips on what to look for when buying a used ST and also provided spare key information	00 ST4
Michael Pagan	Tips on long distance travel
Mike Mullen	Loads of corrections and additional information specific to the ST4s	ST4s
Mike West	Brilliant Dzus conversion article (linked from this document)
Mike Wolf	What can I say about Mike? Contributor and creator of the Project ST. A legend! We are so unworthy, I even hesitated to use his name in the FAQ (Sorry about that Wolfie!) Thanks for the bearing part numbers.
Patrick	Excellent description of how to put a heavy bike up on the main stand
Ray C	Excellent perspective on the Clutch Slave Cylinder problem. Brilliant section on Battery Theory!	01 ST2 98 ST2
Richard Strysniewicz	An excellent web site, with loads of pictures of mods and tips, some of which I’ve used here. Take a look!
Robert Mohns	Provided loads of assistance by compiling the supplemental FAQ. A very big thank you to Rob and all the ST_Owners liSTers.
Ron	Tips for re-installing the rear wheel	00-ST4 01-KTM LC4
Ron Ginter	Providing his tyre pressure info
Ruudje Koskamp	Alternatives on regulators for the ST
Sean Sargeant	A very frank description about what can happen if you use the wrong oil filter.
Stephen Gendle	Starting the ST2 list, and providing support and feedback	Yellow 97 ST2 – “The Duchess”
Steve Allen-Shinn	Provided a correction to an incorrect link
Sue Diaz	Provided some words on the oil screen removal process	01 ST2
Tim Wren	Provided a host of feedback and corrections throughout.	00 ST4
Tom Melesky	Advice on tyre pressures
Vincent Roussillat	Battery tip	ST2
Warren Walker	Provided the suspension setup section.	97 ST2

1.2 Model History

1.2.1 1997

ST2 released. The engine appears to be a descendant of Ducati’s first fuel injected street bike, the 907ie, whereas the frame appears to have been derived from a 916 trellis frame.

The 907ie was a mixed bag with the old square-tube frame, 851 cases, bigger brakes, 17” wheels (thanks to David Porter for this)

Only a limited number of ST2’s were available in the US in 1997 due to delays in obtaining certification for the necessary emission standards - it seems as though these bikes were 1998 spec (see below).

Cost of an ST2 was around $12,000 in the USA. Luggage was available as an option.

1.2.2 1998

Colours available were silver and black, with the dull gold frame and wheels. Red was available in Europe, but one of the listers who tried to order a red 98 ST2 in the US was told “No”.

Fully adjustable Showa forks and Showa shock (threaded preload adjuster), although it seems the ramp style preload adjuster made it onto some of the later 98 models.

Cost in the US was $12,495 bags included. Engine is indeed a mix of water cooled 4-valve and air-cooled 2-valve, with a 2 mm bigger bore than 900SS motor for 944 cc. Engine colour is sort of brownish, goldish, grey. (Thanks to Kyle for this section)

Some earlier ST2’s have “DUCATI” as stamped on part of the right side engine case cover

1.2.3 1999

1999 saw introduction of ST4 with all the suspension components of the ST2 for US$14,495 (or $14,995) but bags were an $800 option for ST4 (later included since they couldn’t sell too many 99’s).

I believe the 1999 ST4 got the gold remote-reservoir master cylinders. 1999’s had the ramp adjustable preload Showa shock, not threaded.

ST4’s this year also got the same brake discs as the 996 (bright gold aluminium carrier, not steel. I know by 2001 they changed to the less expensive discs as found on the other bikes).

Most importantly (for those suffering 98 owners) the electrical system was changed to a 3-phase higher wattage output system. (Thanks to Kyle for this section).

Some 1999 model STs had their brake and clutch master cylinders changed to the new plastic type.

1.2.4 2000

Thanks to Ian Ellis for this material!

ST2:

· updated graphics

· equipped with Kryptonite anti-theft padlock

· auxiliary power socket (takes BMW plug)

· new clutch master cylinder

· standard equipment includes colour matched saddle bags

· non-self-retracting side stand (fix a problem and call it an upgrade!)

· gold coloured frame retained

ST4:

· updated graphics

· equipped with Kryptonite anti-theft padlock

· auxiliary power socket

· new clutch master cylinder

· standard equipment includes colour matched saddle bags

· non-self-retracting side stand

· Ducati Racing gun metal grey frame and wheels

From the Ducati UK website (no longer on line):

All Versions:

· Change in logo on fairing.

· Ducati Sport touring logo on the fuel cap.

· Rear splash guard removed.

· New design aluminium carrier for disc brakes.

· Anti theft lock under seat.

· Power take-off for accessories.

· Protective treatment with double transparent layer on the fairing.

· Brembo PSC 12 clutch master cylinder with higher hydraulic ratio.

· 320mm Brembo front discs.

· Brembo P4 30-34 front calipers with 4 pistons and new PSC master cylinder with Radial technology.

· Steel braided brake lines.

· Brake pads of sintered, high friction material.

· Side stand without automatic return, with fully extended lock and anti engine start-up sensor.

ST4:

· front disc increased to 5MM (probably to address warping of rotors)

Owner observation: Clutch and front brake reservoirs change from metal “coffin” style to plastic cylinders mounted above the bars - late in the model year plastic tank guard got ST logo added

In US ST2 colour was red or blue metallic. ST4 was red or yellow

MSRP ST2 - $12,495

MSRP ST4 - $14,695

1.2.5 2001

2001 was the last year the ST4 was imported into the US, although they were still being sold in Europe and Australia during 2002.

A redesigned, sealed clutch slave cylinder was released in 2001 and should be fitted to all 2001 model STs. (Note there was a recall for some 2001 model STs – check with your dealer to see if this applies to you.) See “Clutch” section below for details.

ST2:

· Lower spec Sachs rear shock replaces the Showa.

· Yellow introduced for the ST2.

· Frame changed to metallic grey colour. Engine is metallic silver grey.

· Enlarged 12mm engine to frame linkages.

· Lighter sealed-for-life battery.

· New timing belt rollers with stepless adjustment on hub for fine timing.

· Showa front forks with inverted chromium plated 43 mm legs and spring preload adjustment.

Colours available: Red, Metallic Blue, Red. Metallic Silver

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey

ST4:

· Frame changed to metallic grey colour. Engine is metallic silver grey.

· Enlarged 12mm engine to frame linkages.

· Lighter sealed-for-life battery.

· New oil cooling pipes with double o-ring.

· New Sachs rear shock absorber.

· New, lighter front brake discs.

Colours available: Red, Metallic Blue, Red.

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey.

ST4s:

Designated as a Model year 2002, these 996 based Sport Touring Ducatis were released in 2001.

Colours available: Matt Grey, Yellow, Red.

Frame colour: Metallic Grey

· New graphics, new Asahi-Denso switchgear

· Special hi-torque version of the Desmoquattro 996 engine, integrated injection-ignition CPU incorporating immobiliser, specific sprocket ratios, fuel pump with new lighter, more compact flange.

· Ohlins rear shock absorber with spring preload, compression and rebound adjustment, aluminium swing arm, Brembo 5 spoke wheels.

· MSRP on release was around $15,000 (in the USA)

1.2.6 2002

ST2:

· Sealed clutch slave cylinder fitted

Colours available: Red, Yellow, Metallic Silver

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey

ST4:

· Sealed clutch slave cylinder fitted

Colours available: Red, Yellow.

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey.

ST4s:

Colours available: Matt Grey (titanium), Yellow, Red.

Frame colour: Metallic Grey

1.2.7 2003

ST2:

· It is reported that no ST2 models were produced in 2003, although they existed on the Ducati web site.

Colours available: Red, Yellow, Metallic Silver

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey

ST4:

· Final year of availability for the ST4

Colours available: Yellow, Red.

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey.

ST4s:

· Upgraded 20A power socket

· Clutch has a micro switch, if in gear you must hold in lever to start machine.

· Side stand can be down and engine will start and run.

· Immobilizer is a variant of the original on the 2002. Hopefully better.

· Starter solenoid has revised leads preventing the wire connector from coming off. Also the leads to battery and starter are now facing outboard and are covered so nothing can touch them.

· Factory-supplied tires are Michelin Pilot Sport (in the USA, at least)

· Tank/Key cover is color-matched to bodywork (not dark grey plastic as in all previous models)

Colours available: Matt Grey (Titanium), Red, and Metallic Grey with red wheels.

Frame colour: Metallic Grey

ST4s ABS:

In 2003, Ducati introduced ABS, adding an ABS variant of the ST4s. Ducati claimed that its ABS, made to its spec by Bosch, was a true sporting ABS designed not to hinder the aggressive sports rider. Motorcycle Consumer News objectively confirmed this in their test of the 2004 ABS model, recording the shortest stop of any motorcycle they ever tested.

MCN observed that BMW and Honda ABS systems limit braking force to 1 G of deceleration, which artificially increases their stopping distances from their potential. Ducati ABS, in contrast, never activates until the wheel sensor and ABS computer believe that the machine actually is losing traction.

There are two stages of ABS activation:

Stop further rider input: The ABS unit closes a valve between the lever/pedal and the brakes, preventing an increase in stopping power. (This feel like a “kick” at the lever and/or pedal.) This first stage is designed to prevent wheel lock-up without reducing braking pressure at the time.

Reduce braking power: The ABS unit momentarily releases pressure on the brakes. (This feels like the bike “jumps forward” as braking pressure and deceleration force decrease. Some riders find this unnerving, but the system is designing as intended.) This ends as soon as possible.

The ABS computer senses deceleration during a braking operation (eg, from level pull/pedal push until you release). If either stage 1 or 2 activates, the computer remembers how much deceleration force the bike was exerting before it started to lose traction, and limits braking to that limit for the remainder of the event. The computer resets (forgets this limit) as soon as the braking event ends – eg, you release the brakes, indicating that no further braking is required.

Front and rear wheel antilock are handled independently. However, if the front and rear wheels show very, very different speeds – for example, if you ride an extended wheelie and the front wheel slows or stops spinning – the ABS computer decides it does not have enough information to make an intelligent decision, and deactivates ABS until the data looks sane again.

Also in 2003, the accessory power socket was upgraded to support 20 amps. (The editor of this FAQ does not recommend trying to pull that much continuous power!). This may be because they had to run substantial power to the ABS unit under the seat, and it was easy to upgrade the socket wiring too.

Colours available: Matt Grey (Titanium), Red, and Metallic Grey with red wheels.

Frame colour: Metallic Grey

1.2.8 2004

For the 2004 series of Sport Touring the ST2 and ST4 were both dropped. A new 3 valve ST3 was added to the range, and fits in between where the ST2 and ST4 were. The ST4s and ST4s ABS complete the range.

The entire range was restyled with a new front fairing and better headlight which is adjustable from the instrument panel. Handle bars are height adjustable, the seat has been completely revised, and adjustable brake and clutch levers were introduced. New instrumentation was included.

Catalytic converters are included for non-USA models (according to the Ducati.com web site).

All ST models now allow the bike to warm up in neutral with the sidestand down.

Immobilizers are now standard across the entire ST range.

CAN Line electronics were added to all STs – essentially this means that many signals will share just two wires, greatly simplifying the wiring on the motorcycle.

ST3:

In 2004, Ducati introduced the replacement to the ST2: the 3-valve ST3. Producing more power than the ST2 and with better air intake at high engine speeds, the ST3 has made quite the stir. See any magazine review for more details. (Ducati mechanic and owner LT Snyder reviewed the ST3 for Motorcycle Consumer News in their February 05 issue. See <www.mcnews.com> for back issues.)

The ST3 also got CAN network electronics, improved multifunction instruments, a taller windscreen and much improved headlamp as part of the restyled nose fairing, height-adjustable bars (1” higher than the original ST bars, can be lowered back to original position) and perhaps most significant of all, a comfortable seat. The ST3 also has the 2003 ST4’s upgraded accessory power socket.

· All new three valve per cylinder

· Redesigned ‘gel’ seat

· 20A power socket

· CAN electronics

· New windscreen and headlamp design

· Height adjustable bars

· Remote headlight adjuster

Colours available: Red, Yellow, Metallic Silver

Frame Colour: Metallic Grey

ST4s and ABS models:

Many of the improvements for the new ST3 were also introduced to the ST4s

· Redesigned seat

· CAN electronics

· New windscreen and headlamp design

· Height adjustable bars

· Remote headlight adjuster

· Adjustable levers are stock and aluminium in color.

· Handle bars mount to fork tubes below the top triple clamp. (Previous models mounted onto the top of the triple clamp.)

· Top triple clamp is gullwing shaped to allow more room for the different handlebar mounting above

· Instrument cluster is shaped differently. It now holds the immobilizer components. The instrument surrounds are now eliminated.

· The clutch and front brake master cylinders are coffin shaped and similar in size.

· Rear tire hugger is now plastic–vs Carbon Fiber on previous ST4s models.

· New 5A accessory fuse in main fusebox. Listed for heated grips

Colours available: Yellow, Red, Metallic Silver.

Frame colour: Metallic Grey

1.2.9 2005

In the 2005 model year, the ST3 and ST4s got wet clutches. Controversial among many owners of previous model year ST’s, Ducati says it changed to a wet clutch to decrease clutch effort and lower noise. LT Snyder’s 2005 ST3 review for Motorcycle Consumer News noted that the clutch of his demo bike was slightly grabby, as though the plates were sticking due to hydraulic adhesion, and hard to find neutral.

2005 also saw the introduction of improved fairing fasteners, as a direct result of ST owner feedback.

ST3:

· Improved fairing fasteners

· Wet clutch

· Rubber trim on the windscreen gone.

· Seat improvements over 04.

Colours available: Gloss Black, Red, Metallic Silver

Frame Colour: Black, on the gloss black model, metallic grey on others

ST4s and ABS models

· Improved fairing fasteners

· Wet clutch

· Rubber trim on the windscreen gone.

· Preload adjusters of the forks are wing nut in style.

· Seat improvements over 04.

Colours available: Gloss Black, Red, Metallic Grey with red wheels

Frame Colour: Black, on the gloss black model, metallic grey on others

1.3 Special Editions

No special editions known of, although some owners proudly refer to the Metallic Grey model with red wheels as a “Senna”. This is because the colour scheme is similar to a limited edition “Senna” 916 which was released by Ducati in 1995.

1.4 Model differences between countries

1.4.1 Australia

Australian delivered ST bikes are wired so that headlight will come on when the ignition is turned on. The headlight on/off switch has been replaced by a black plastic plate.

1.4.2 USA

All bikes came to US as California Spec with CA EPROM and charcoal canister fitted

Headlight wired as per the Australian model (above).

1.4.3 UK

No specific UK features known of.

1.4.4 Other Countries

1.4.4.1 Singapore

Points on a bike bought in Singapore for a 1998 ST2 (provided by Doug Kendall):

· 12 month warranty

· No headlight switch--always on. Plate where switch is normally.

· Standard with Metzeler MZ4.

· Importer is Distributor is Agent is dealership.

1.5 Warranties

The details in this section are with regards to the Australian supplied and owned ST bikes. Details may vary from country to country. Email ducati_st_faq@bike-gizmos.com if you would like to add specific information for your country.

Original details come from an Owner’s Service Manual from an Australian delivered 2001 model ST2.

In the USA, it may be possible to extend the warranty on your new bike through a program called DFS Advantage (Motorcycle Plus) @ 1-800-228-0662

1.5.1 Warranty period

Ducatis are covered by a factory warranty for the period of 2 years from the purchase date of the motorcycle.

The actual warranty says:

“Ducati Motor S.p.A – warrants all new motorcycles intended for road circulation for a period of twenty-four (24) months without any mileage limit.

This warranty consists in the free replacement or repair of any parts found to be defective or inefficient due to a manufacturing fault ascertained by Ducat Motor S.p.A – Bologna on an ex-works basis. Any defective parts replaced under warranty become the property of Ducat Motor S.p.A. Any new parts used as replacements or repaired under warranty are covered by warranty for the remaining warranty period applicable to the motorcycle.”

1.5.2 Exclusions

As with most vehicle warranties, the warranty offered by Ducati does not cover the following:

· motorcycles used in any kind of contest;

· motorcycles used for hire-service;

· tyres, as their warranty is granted by the relevant manufacturer;

· parts subject to wear in the normal course of operation (final drive, belts, Bowden cables, spark plugs, brake pads, clutch plates);

· regular maintenance operations as well as the material required for this purpose (oil, spark plugs, filters, etc.)

· defects caused by oxydization or weather conditions.

1.5.3 Owner’s Obligations

There are some obligations which owners have.

· Ensure that the Warranty and Pre-Delivery certificate is returned to the Ducati Factory (usually this is done by your dealer);

· Ensure that services are carried out at the specified intervals at an authorised Ducati Dealer (this one is sometimes the cause of some debate!);

· Notify defects to the dealer within 8 days from the time such defects are or should have been found if ordinary diligence is exercised;

· Notify Ducati of the transfer of title using the suitable form in the service booklet.

1.5.4 Limitations of warranty

These are the general escape clauses that can be used. Your warranty can be declared null and void under the following conditions:

· The motorcycle is disassembled or repaired at unauthorised workshops;

· Defects due to accidents, negligence or overloads;

· Non-original parts are used;

· Motorcycles are not used in compliance with the recommendations of Ducati;

· Maintenance is not carried out according to the provisions contained in the owner’s manual. And any other technical bulletins issued by Ducati.

1.5.5 Repairs outside warranty period

Occasionally Ducati North America (DNA) will stand up for repairs past the warranty period, however the dealer needs to be involved or the owner needs to be very assertive.

Your case is obviously strengthened if you have reported problems with the defective item through out the warranty period. If in doubt, record a potential problem with your dealer at service time..

1.6 Recalls

Over the years a number of recall notices have been issued for the ST models

· 1998 ST2 had a recall for an anti-vapour lock cup to be attached to the fuel pump.

· A recall to replace the short (916 part) shift lever with a longer one. This part was changed for 1999-later and now looks like the fat Monster part, not the sleek 916 part.

· A certain VIN range of ST2s also fall under the alternator/shim recall. This recall did nothing for the longevity by my experience.

· Some ’98 owners got their headlight shells replaced too since the sealed units would off-gas badly, and caused a lot of bulb burnouts due to heat I suppose. 1999 and later models have vented headlight shells to help prevent this (although they just fog at a slower rate).

· The infamous bad batch of sprocket retaining clips that only seemed to make it on ST2s in 1998. Replaced with a hardened and much more expensive piece. The hardened item is black in colour.
(Thanks to Kyle for all of the above info).

· Replaced internal fuel lines due to stock ones splitting on some 98 models. (Thanks to Denis for this one)

· Slave cylinders were recalled on 2001 ST models. The factory fitted unit was junk, and allowed grit into the unit. The replacement unit was sealed, and was standard fitment to the 2002 models. No problems were reported with the replacement units.

1.7 What to look for when buying a used Duc

Want some tips on what to look for when buying your new used ST? Here’s a list of things to check. Don’t be put off – your prospective purchase may have none of these things wrong. More details on some of these individual items can be found in the “Known Problems” section….

· Slave cylinder leak

· Front and rear wheel bearing slop

· Steering head bearing slop

· Disk warpage

· Chain wear

· Light housing fogged up (easily fixed by rinsing with alcohol)

· Tire condition

· Ask about service intervals

· Ask about rocker arms

· Look for cracks in frame

· Look for broken engine mount bolt.

· Check all lights

· Ease of starting when cold (although most Dukes are a temperamental to start from cold).

Thanks to Mark Willburger for starting this list off.

2. Specifications

2.1 Colour Specifications

Colour	Paint Code
Red	473.101
Yellow	473.201
Metallic Silver (ST2 only)	291.601
Metallic Blue (ST2 only)	291.800
Matt Grey (ST4s only)	291.600
Metallic Black (ST2 only)	291.500
Metallic Dark Grey (ST4 model with red wheels)	653.6047
Gloss Black (introduced 2005)	248.514

Thanks to Ian Ellis for the following info, and applies to the USA:

· Colour codes are manufacturer code

· Colour Rite touch up pens can be purchased from Fast by Ferracci http://www.ferracci.com/

· Gold frame and wheel colour is F99835

· Clear coat is TFCC(U)

· Blue is 7570U

· Yellow listed as F99815 (not tried)

· Red 94-new listed as F99805 (not tried)

· Dark Anthracite/Metallic Gray listed as F99820 (not tried)

· Light silver is listed as F99825 (not tried)

Additional information available at http://www.color-rite.com/

The following information on the Matt Grey (no - it’s NOT bat barf!) kindly supplied by Brad:

“While researching the painting of my (soon to be ordered) 4S, I learned that the grey bikes (as are all "matte" finish Ducs) are in fact clear coated. It has a "dulling" clear coat applied over the grey
paint which is why the decals have to be applied to the outside, rather than under, the clear coat otherwise the decal colours wouldn't look right.

Furthermore, I was told that using Honda polish or other wax product WOULD NOT harm the finish, or alter the colour, since there is the same amount of clear coat layers on all the colours. Plus, use of these products are, actually, recommended as it would help preserve the decals (both colour and adhesion). FYI, this information is from Autobody Dynamics in Crest Hill, IL.”

2.2 ST2 General Specifications

Dimensions

1997 - 2001

Length

2070 mm

Width

910 mm (mirrors are the widest point on each side of the bike)

Height

1180 mm

Ground clearance

165 mm (lowest point is the exhaust going under the bike from the forward cylinder)

Weight

Dry

212 kg

Loaded

420 kg

Wheelbase

1430mm

Engine

1997 - 2001

Type

Twin cylinder, four stroke, 90 degree “L” type, longitudinal, 944 cc

Valve Gear

2 per cylinder, Desmodromic, operated by four rockers (2 opening rockers and 2 closing rockers) and a single overhead camshaft. It is operated by the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers and toothed belts.

Compression ratio

1 : 10.2 ± 0.5

Power

61 kW, 83 HP at 8500 rpm

Torque

82 Nm at 6500

Max rotation speed

9000 rpm

Bore x Stroke

94.0 mm x 68.0 mm

Fuel Grade

95 – 98 RON Unleaded

Frame

Type

Tubular trellis with upper section made of high strength steel

Steering angle

30 degrees

Headstock angle

24 degrees

Trail

102 mm

Transmission

Type

6 – speed gearbox with constant mesh gears, gear change pedal on left side of motorcycle. Drive is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox main shaft via spur gears.

Total Gear Ratios

1^st

15 /37

2^nd

17 / 30

3^rd

20 / 27

4^th

22 / 24

5^th

24 / 23

6^th

28 / 24

Clutch

Dry clutch operated by control lever on left handlebar.

Sprockets

Front

15 teeth

Rear

42 teeth

Chain

Make

DID

Type

525 HV

Size

5/8” x 1/16” (Chain specifications supplied in inches by Ducati)

Links

102

Wheels

Type

Brembo Three-spoke, light-alloy rims

Dimension

Front

3.50 x 17”

Rear

5.50 x 17”

Tyres

1997

1998

1999

2000

2001

Size

Front

120/70 – ZR17

Rear

170/60 – ZR17

Type

Front

Metzeler ?

Dunlop ??

Rear

Metzeler ?

Dunlop ??

Brakes

1997

1998

1999

2000

2001

Front

Type

Double floating drilled disc, hydraulically operated by a control lever on right handlebar. Brake calipers with separate 30/34-4 pistons

Disc diameter

320 mm

Braking surface

88 sq cm

Make

Brembo

Friction material

FERIT I/D 450 FF

Master Cylinder

PS 16

Rear

Type

Fixed drilled steel disc, hydraulically operated by a pedal on the right side.

Disc diameter

245 mm

Braking surface

25 sq cm

Make

Brembo

Friction material

FERIT I/D 450 FF

Master Cylinder

PS 11

Electrical

Headlamp

12V-55W low beam unit, poly-ellipsoidal with capacitor;

12V-55W high beam unit;

12V-5W parking light.

Instrument Panel

12V-1.2W warning lights;

12V-2W and 3W instrument lights (Anyone know which is which?)

Turn Indicators

12V-10W bulbs

Tail light

12V-5/21W double filament bulb for stop light and parking light;

12V-5W bulb for number plate light

Battery

12V-10 Ah

Generator

12V-520W

Starter motor

12V-0.7kW

Electronic voltage regulator protected by a 40A fuse.

Spark Plugs

Champion RA 4 HC

Suspension

Front

Type

Hydraulic upside-down fork provided with outer adjuster for rebound, compression and preload (for inner springs of fork legs)

Staunchion Diameter

43 mm

Travel

130 mm

Type

Progressive, with a rocker arm connecting frame and upper pivot point of the shock absorber and an arch connected at the bottom to the swingarm. Shock absorber allows adjustment of compression damping and rebound, and spring preload. Is this still true?

Rear

Travel:

65 mm

Rear wheel travel:

148 mm

Capacities

Fuel

21 litres, including 4 litre reserve

Engine oil

3.4 litres, Shell Advance Ultra 4

Front fork

0.492 litres (each leg), Shell Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA

Front / Rear brake and clutch circuits

Shell Advance Brake DOT 4

Cooling Circuit

3.5 litres, Antifreeze Shell Advance Coolant or Glycoshell 35-40% + water

2.3 ST2 Part Numbers and Service Specs

The following information comes from publicly available Ducati information. Data related to Model Year 2000.

Item	Part Number	Other Data
Timing Belt	73710011A	Service Tension: 2.5 with gauge 887650999 (+ KIT 887651086)
Valve clearances • Opening: Intake Exhaust • Closing: Intake Exhaust		assembly / inspection - mm (from cold) 0.10¸ 0.12 / 0.05¸ 0.12 0.12¸ 0.15 / 0.05¸ 0.15 0.03¸ 0.05 / 0.03¸ 0.20 0.03¸ 0.05 / 0.03¸ 0.20
Valve lift: Intake / Exhaust	mm (0 clearance)	11.8/11.4
Chain • Front and rear sprocket/chain kit no.	525 HV 67620291A
Clutch Kit no.	19020013A
Air filter	42610091A
Fuel pump intake filter	42540081A
Fuel filter	42540041B
Throttle opening (idling)	(degrees)	2.4 (EU) 2.95 (USA) 3.5 (CH)
CO rate ± 0.5 (standard)	% Vol.	From 3% to 6%
Spark plug (type) • Part No.	RA 4 HC 67040071A
Electrode gap	mm	0.5¸ 0.6
Pick-up air gap	mm	0.6¸ 0.8
12V battery	39540011A

2.4 ST4 General Specifications

Items in RED indicate differences between the ST2 and ST4

Dimensions

?? - 2001

Length

2070 mm

Width

910 mm (mirrors are the widest point on each side of the bike)

Height

1180 mm

Ground clearance

165 mm (lowest point is the exhaust going under the bike from the forward cylinder)

Weight

Dry

215 kg

Loaded

420 kg

Wheelbase

1430mm

Engine

?? - 2001

Type

Twin cylinder, four stroke, 90 degree “L” type, longitudinal, 916 cc

Valve Gear

4 per cylinder, Desmodromic, operated by eight rockers (4 opening rockers and 4 closing rockers) and a single overhead camshaft. It is operated by the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers and toothed belts.

Compression ratio

1 : 11.0 ± 0.5

Power

78.6 kW, 107 HP at 9500 rpm

Torque

84 Nm at 7250

Max rotation speed

10,000 rpm

Bore x Stroke

94.0 mm x 66.0 mm

Fuel Grade

95 – 98 RON Unleaded

Frame

Type

Tubular trellis with upper section made of high strength steel

Steering angle

30 degrees

Headstock angle

24 degrees

Trail

102 mm

Transmission

Type

6 – speed gearbox with constant mesh gears, gear change pedal on left side of motorcycle. Drive is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox main shaft via spur gears.

Total Gear Ratios

1^st

15 /37

2^nd

17 / 30

3^rd

20 / 27

4^th

22 / 24

5^th

24 / 23

6^th

28 / 24

Clutch

Dry clutch operated by control lever on left handlebar.

Sprockets

Front

15 teeth

Rear

43 teeth

Chain

Make

DID

Type

525 HV

Size

5/8” x 1/16” (Chain specifications supplied in inches by Ducati)

Links

102

Wheels

Type

Brembo Three-spoke, light-alloy rims

Dimension

Front

3.50 x 17”

Rear

5.50 x 17”

Tyres

2000

2001

Size

Front

120/70 – ZR17

Rear

170/60 – ZR17

Type

Front

Metzeler ?

Dunlop ??

Rear

Metzeler ?

Dunlop ??

Brakes

2000

2001

Front

Type

Double floating drilled disc, hydraulically operated by a control lever on right handlebar. Brake calipers with separate 30/34-4 pistons

Disc diameter

320 mm

Braking surface

88 sq cm

Make

Brembo

Friction material

FERIT I/D 450 FF

Master Cylinder

PS 16

Rear

Type

Fixed drilled steel disc, hydraulically operated by a pedal on the right side.

Disc diameter

245 mm

Braking surface

25 sq cm

Make

Brembo

Friction material

FERIT I/D 450 FF

Master Cylinder

PS 11

Electrical

Headlamp

12V-55W low beam unit, poly-ellipsoidal with capacitor;

12V-55W high beam unit;

12V-5W parking light.

Instrument Panel

12V-1.2W warning lights;

12V-2W and 3W instrument lights (Anyone know which is which?)

Turn Indicators

12V-10W bulbs

Tail light

12V-5/21W double filament bulb for stop light and parking light;

12V-5W bulb for number plate light

Battery

12V-10 Ah

Generator

12V-520W

Starter motor

12V-0.7kW

Electronic voltage regulator protected by a 40A fuse.

Spark Plugs

Champion RA 59 GC

Suspension

Front

Type

Hydraulic upside-down fork provided with outer adjuster for rebound, compression and preload (for inner springs of fork legs)

Staunchion Diameter

43 mm

Travel

130 mm

Type

Rear

Travel:

65 mm

Rear wheel travel:

148 mm

Capacities

Fuel

21 litres, including 4 litre reserve

Engine oil

3.4 litres, Shell Advance Ultra 4

Front fork

0.492 litres (each leg), Shell Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA

Front / Rear brake and clutch circuits

Shell Advance Brake DOT 4

Cooling Circuit

3.5 litres, Antifreeze Shell Advance Coolant or Glycoshell 35-40% + water

2.5 ST4 Part Numbers and Service Specs

The following information comes from publicly available Ducati information. Data related to Model Year 2000.

Item	Part Number	Other Data
Timing Belt	73710041A	Service Tension: 2.5 (with gauge 887650999)
Valve clearances • Opening: Intake Exhaust • Closing: Intake Exhaust		assembly / inspection (mm from cold) 0.16¸ 0.18 / 0.05¸ 0.18 0.21¸ 0.23 / 0.05¸ 0.23 0.16¸ 0.18 / 0.16¸ 0.25 0.11¸ 0.13 / 0.11¸ 0.20
Valve lift: Intake / Exhaust	mm (0 clearance)	9.6/8.74
Chain • Front and rear sprocket/chain kit no.	525 HV 67620331A
Clutch Kit no.	19020013A
Air filter	42610091A
Fuel pump intake filter	42710031A
Fuel filter	42540041B
Throttle opening (idling)	(degrees)	1.84 (EU) 2.39 (USA) 2.39 (CH)
CO rate ± 0.5 (standard)	% Vol.	From 3% to 6%
Spark plug (type) • Part No.	RA 59 GC 67040121A
Electrode gap	mm	0.5¸ 0.6
Pick-up air gap	mm	0.6¸ 0.8

2.6 ST4s General Specifications

Items in GREEN indicate differences between the ST4 and ST4s

Many items need to be verified.

Dimensions
				2001
Length				2070 mm
Width				910 mm (mirrors are the widest point on each side of the bike)
Height				1180 mm
Ground clearance				165 mm (lowest point is the exhaust going under the bike from the forward cylinder)
Weight		Dry		212 kg / 467 lbs.
		Loaded		420 kg
Wheelbase				1430mm
Seat Height				820 mm
Engine
				2001
Type				Twin cylinder, four stroke, 90 degree “L” type, longitudinal, 996 cc
Valve Gear				2 per cylinder, Desmodromic, operated by four rockers (2 opening rockers and 2 closing rockers) and a single overhead camshaft. It is operated by the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers and toothed belts.
Compression ratio				1:11.5 +/- 0.5
Power				88 kW, 117 HP at 9000 rpm
Torque				98 Nm at 7000 rpm
Max rotation speed				10,000 rpm
Bore x Stroke				98.0 mm x 66.0 mm
Fuel Grade				95 – 98 RON Unleaded

Frame
Type					Tubular trellis with upper section made of high strength steel
Steering angle					30 degrees
Headstock angle					24 degrees
Trail					102 mm

Transmission
Type					6 – speed gearbox with constant mesh gears, gear change pedal on left side of motorcycle. Drive is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox main shaft via spur gears.
Total Gear Ratios		1^st			15 /37
		2^nd			17 / 30
		3^rd			20 / 27
		4^th			22 / 24
		5^th			24 / 23
		6^th			28 / 24
Clutch					Dry clutch operated by control lever on left handlebar.
Sprockets		Front			15 teeth
		Rear			38 teeth
Chain		Make			DID
		Type			525 HV
		Size			5/8” x 1/16” (Chain specifications supplied in inches by Ducati)
		Links			102

Wheels
Type					Brembo Five-spoke, light-alloy rims
Dimension		Front			3.50 x 17”
		Rear			5.50 x 17”

Tyres
					2001
Size			Front		120/70 – ZR17
			Rear		180/55 – ZR17
Type			Front		Michelin Pilot Sport
			Rear		Michelin Pilot Sport

Brakes
					2001
Front			Type		Double semi floating drilled disc, hydraulically operated by a control lever on right handlebar. Brake calipers with separate 30/34-4 pistons
			Disc diameter		320 mm
			Braking surface		88 sq cm
			Make		Brembo
			Friction material		FERIT I/D 450 FF
			Master Cylinder		PS 16
Rear			Type		Fixed drilled steel disc, hydraulically operated by a pedal on the right side.
			Disc diameter		245 mm
			Braking surface		25 sq cm
			Make		Brembo
			Friction material		FERIT I/D 450 FF
			Master Cylinder		PS 11

Electrical
Headlamp					12V-55W low beam unit, poly-ellipsoidal with capacitor; 12V-55W high beam unit; 12V-5W parking light.
Instrument Panel					12V-1.2W warning lights; 12V-2W and 3W instrument lights (Anyone know which is which?)
Turn Indicators					12V-10W bulbs
Tail light					12V-5/21W double filament bulb for stop light and parking light; 12V-5W bulb for number plate light
Battery					12V-10 Ah
Generator					12V-520W
Starter motor					12V-0.7kW
Electronic voltage regulator protected by a 40A fuse.
Spark Plugs					Champion RA59 GC

Suspension
Front	Type					Showa with TiN upside down fork fully adjustable
	Staunchion Diameter					43 mm
	Travel					130 mm
	Type					Progressive, with a rocker arm connecting frame and upper pivot point of the shock absorber and an arch connected at the bottom to the aluminium alloy swingarm. Ohlins fully adjustable with remote control.
Rear	Travel:					65 mm
	Rear wheel travel:					148 mm

Capacities
Fuel					21 litres, including 6 litre reserve
Engine oil					3.7 litres, Shell Advance Ultra 4
Front fork					0.492 litres (each leg), Shell Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA
Front / Rear brake and clutch circuits					Shell Advance Brake DOT 4
Cooling Circuit					3.5 litres, Antifreeze Shell Advance Coolant or Glycoshell 35-40% + water

2.7 ST4s Part Numbers and Service Specs

Not available. (sorry!)

2.8 Additional Part Numbers

2.8.1 Bearings

The following part number information was provided by Wolfie:

These part numbers are common across ST2, ST4 and ST4s

Item	Ducati Part Number	Alternate Part Number
Item	Ducati Part Number	Manufacturer	Part Number
Front and Rear Wheel Bearings (same bearings, you'll need two per wheel):	75162.2566	SKF	6005-2RS1/C3
Sprocket Carrier Bearings (you'll need two):	75162.3075	SKF	6006-2RS1
Clutch Throwout Bearing:	702.5.016.1A	SKF	6201-2RS2/LHT23

2.9 Torque Figures

Data related to model year 2000

MAIN TORQUE FIGURES - ENGINE
	Thread x pitch (mm)	Nm ± 5%	Notes
Head nuts, 2V engines (approach/final)	10 x 1.5	15 / 30 /38	Grease RETINAX - LX 2
Head nuts, 4V engines (approach/final)	10x1.5	15 / 30 / 51	Grease RETINAX - LX 2
Timing ring nuts (head / transmission)	15x1	71/61	Use new ring nuts
Flywheel / alternator nut	20x1	186	Engine oil
Crankshaft gear nut	22x1	186
Clutch nut	20x1	186	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Timing transmission gear nut	14x1	45
Spark plugs	12x1.25	20
Oil plug	22x1.5	45
Oil cartridge filter no. 44440034A	16x1.5	16
Oil mesh filter	22x1.5	45

MAIN TORQUE FIGURES – FRAME
	Thread x pitch (mm)	Nm ± 5%	Notes
Front wheel nut	25x1.5	63	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Front / rear wheel nut (ST)	25x1.5	63/83	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Rear wheel nut	16x1.5	72	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Rear wheel (748-996)
RH nut (wheel) LH nut (rear sprocket)	38x1.5 33x1.5	176 157	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Chain tensioning screws	8x1.25	8
Chain eccentric adjuster screws (748-996)	12x1.25	31	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Rear sprocket retaining nuts	10x1.25	48	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Head / bottom yoke bolts (748-996) Head / bottom yoke bolts (ST) Head / bottom yoke bolts (M900ie) Head yoke bolts (SS) Head / bottom yoke bolts (SS)	8x1.25 8x1.25 8x1.25 10x1.5 8x1.25	22/14 22/20 22/22 37 23/20	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Swing arm pivot pin screws	10x1.5	37	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Swing arm pivot pin screw (748-996)	15x1.25	73	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Fork lug screws	8x1.25	19	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Front brake caliper screws	10x1.5	43	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Rear brake caliper screws	8x1.25	25	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Engine mounting bolts	10x1.25	44	Grease RETINAX - HDX 2

2.10 Vehicle Identification Number

Occasionally buyers will like to know whether the bike they are looking at in the showroom is as advertised. The following diagram will show you how you can determine the year of manufacture:

For an ST2:

ZDM 1T B 9 P * W B 000000

--- -------- - - - ------

| | | | |

| | | |

| | | |______Model Year

| | |

| | |____Check digit (varies)

| |

| |______Type of motorcycle

|________Ducati

For an ST4:

ZDM 1T B 8 S * X B 000000

--- -------- - - - ------

| | | | |

| | | |

| | | |______Model Year

| | |

| | |____Check digit (varies)

| |

| |______Type of motorcycle

|________Ducati

Your model year will follow the following table:

V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002

The plant of manufacture will be “B” for “Bologna” (Thanks to Kent for this info).

The following is an example of a 97 model ST2 VIN provided by Jukka in Finland (last four digits not shown correctly):

ZDM S1 00AA V B 000000

(ducati) (type) (variant & (year) (ctrl) (frame #)

Italy) version)

A 2001 Australian delivered ST2 has the following VIN format (again, last four digits not shown correctly):

ZDM S1 00AA 1 B 000000

3. Maintenance

3.1 Running-In

Running in (or “break in” as it’s called in some countries) is the subject of some debate. Some people say that you should “let ‘er rip” and be done with it. Others will treat their baby as though it might break if put through too much stress. Here’s the factory recommendation from the owners manual:

*Distance*	*ST2 max*	*ST4 max*	*ST4s max*
Up to 1000 km (620 miles)	5500 rpm	6000 rpm	6000 rpm
1000 km to 2500 km	7000 rpm	7500 rpm	7500 rpm
After 2500 km	9000 rpm	10,000 rpm	10,000 rpm

“During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to run the engine at varying load and rpm, though still within the recommended limit.

To this end, roads with plenty of bends and even slightly hilly areas are ideal for a most efficient running-in of engine, brakes and suspension.

For the first 100 km, use the brakes gently. Do not brake violently or keep brake applied for too long. This will enable a correct break-in of friction material on brake pads against brake discs.

For all mechanical parts of the motorcycle to adapt to one another and above all not to adversely affect the life of basic engine parts, it is advisable to avoid harsh accelerations and not to run the engine at high rpm for too long, especially uphill.

Furthermore, the drive chain should be inspected frequently. Lubricate and tighten it as required.”

3.2 Servicing

Servicing is one of those topics which can have owners debating for hours. Essentially, there are four options:

· Obtain service at an authorised Ducati service centre,

· Get your bike serviced at a non-authorised service centre;

· Service the bike yourself; or

· Waddaya mean – service?

If you decide not to do the servicing yourself, then the choice of an authorised or non-authorised service centre is purely personal. Remember, however, that if the bike is under warranty, the manual stipulates that servicing must be carried out by an authorised centre.

Maintenance costs are often a subject of concern for potential new Ducati owners. Sure – the cost of servicing for an ST is more than for a comparable (what the hell can compare to a Duc?) Jap bike. If you compare the costs to a Beemer, you might be pleasantly surprised. As a general rule, the two valve ST2 is a little cheaper to service than the 4 valve ST4 or ST4s.

Quite often the decision to own a Ducati is not based on hard and fast measurables like the service costs!

3.2.1 Service Intervals

According to the owners manual, service intervals are every 10,000 km (6200 miles), plus a service at 1000 km (620 miles). Some dealers will advise services every 5,000 km (3100 miles).

If you decide get your bike serviced every 10,000 km, it’s a good idea to at least change the oil between services, as a minimum. Also, keep an eye on other fluid levels, and if you notice a change in colour of clutch or brake fluids, combined with a change in the lever action, get your bike looked at – it might indicate a leak or some other problem.

It’s also advised that you lubricate the chain at least every 1000 km. The choice of chain lube varies between owners – some recommendations can be found in your owners manual.

If you’re not interested in constantly lubricating your chain, you might want to consider an automatic lubrication system such as the ScottOiler system. For more information, see the “modifications” section.

3.2.2 Service Items

A complete list of the service items as shown by a Ducati dealer is shown below.

ST2 Service Schedule as supplied by my dealer.

This list is a little more comprehensive than supplied in the Ducati service manual.

In addition to the service items listed below, the chain, cables, coolant, brake and clutch fluids, engine oil, brake pads and tyres should be checked at least every 1000k, according to the service manual.

Note - 5,000k service does not appear in the owner’s service book.

Action	After 1,000k	Every 5,000k	Every 10,000k	Every 20,000k
Check engine oil	Predelivery
Replace engine oil	a	a	a	a
Replace Oil filter	a	a	a	a
Clean Engine intake oil filter	a	a	a	a
Check cylinder head nuts	a	a	a	a
Check / Adjust valve clearance			a	a
Check / Adjust timing belts	a	a	a	Replace
Replace Spark Plugs			a	a
Check / Top up coolant	a	a	a	Replace
Replace fuel filter			a	a
Check / Adjust Throttle balance, idle speed, and mixture	a	a	a	a
Check Air Filter	a	a	Replace	Replace
Check cylinder compression Record compression figures			a	a
Check brake fluid level	a	a	Replace	Replace
Check clutch fluid level	Replace	Replace	Replace	Replace
Check / Adjust control cables	a	a	a	a
Check / Adjust tyre wear / pressure	a	a	a	a
Check / Adjust Steering Bearing play	a	a	a	a
Check / Adjust Chain Tension and alignment / lubrication	a	a	a	a
Check brake pad wear		a	a	a
Check wheel bearings		a	a	a
Check rear wheel cush drive		a	a	a
Add cleaner to fuel tank			a	a
Replace front fork oil				a
Check all nuts / bolts	a	a	a	a
General lubrication of pivots etc.	a	a	a	a
Check battery fluid level / charge	a	a	a	a
Check headlight setting	Predelivery
Loctite side stand bolts	Predelivery
Loctite front sprocket holder plate	Predelivery
Check lights / warning lights	a	a	a	a
Check operation of instruments	a	a	a	a
Check operation of cooling fan	a	a	a	a
Check / reset clock setting	a	a	a	a
Motorcycle test ride	a	a	a	a

One of the items not mentioned in the service schedule is to check the engine mounting bolts. Worth while, just for peace of mind.

3.2.3 Chain maintenance

Chain adjustment and lubrication are amongst the important aspects of caring for your bike - even if you decide to have all regular servicing performed by a dealer, you will still need to carry out some chain maintenance yourself. Waiting until the next service will be too late. -your chain and sprockets will be “Kangaroo - Edward” (aka “Rooted” - some Aussie humour for you….)

3.2.3.1 Chain Lubrication

The general consensus amongst ST owners is that chains need to be lubricated as often as possible. Depending on how often you ride, this may be a weekly task. I try and lube my chain after a decent ride - on some weekends the chain will be lubricated daily.

The question of what to use on your chain varies (mental note to self - run a survey on the Owners Group and find out what’s the most popular).

I prefer a White Bel-Ray product which is applied (sprayed) onto a warm chain, and sets to a wax like consistency. It’s easy, it works, and it doesn’t fling gunk onto your rear wheel - but that’s my choice. There’s a similar “Aral” product which I know some owners also like to use. Don’t skimp - A new chain and sprockets will cost much more than a can of good quality lube.

Of course, if the thought of constant chain maintenance sounds like too much hard work - you can always go for a “ScottOiler”.

3.2.3.2 Chain Adjustment

Why adjust the chain? Simple. As the chain wears, it stretches. If the rear wheel of the bike isn’t moved back a small amount to compensate, there will be too much slack - resulting in chain slapping against the swingarm, chain snatching when you try and accelerate, and all round bad news.

The important thing to note, however, is that a chain which is too tight is worse than a chain which is too loose.

Note - your chain tension when the bike is up on the centre stand will be different to the tension when the bike is on the ground, with your rear parked in the seat, and your weight compressing the rear of the bike.

To tighten your chain, you loosen the nuts holding the axle, and move the rear wheel back. The rear wheel must be even within both arms of the swingarm, otherwise it will point to the left or the right of the bike. This makes cornering an interesting (!) exercise! You’ll notice some guide marks on the swingarm. These are usually fine, however some owners never trust marks made by someone else, and check the alignment themselves.

The specifications indicate that the amount of free play in the chain should be 30 mm for an ST2, and 32mm for an ST4 – measured while the bike is on the centre stand. See your owners manual for more information.

Here’s a simple guide on adjustment from David Von Stein:

“The actual amount of slack in your chain isn't that critical, as long as it isn't too tight. Check the tension in a couple of different places on the chain as there are usually loose and tight spots. An easy way to check your wheel alignment is with a small tape measure from the swing arm pivot (remove the rubber plugs) to the rear axle comparing both sides. Do not forget to take this measurement after you tighten the axel nut to make sure nothing has moved. And then put them rubber plugs back in your swing arm. “

Some further advice from Ron Ginter (in reply to a new owner’s confusion after reading the owner’s manual):

”Don't obsess about it. It's not that critical. Put the bike on the centrestand, then grasp the chain midway between the countershaft and the rear axle between your thumb and first finger. Pull it up firmly, then pull it down firmly. It should move within the specifications. Rotate the back wheel a little and do it again. Repeat as needed. Measure the same point on the chain from top to bottom of movement, e.g. use the horizontal centre of the link as a reference point.

If it's a little tight, then as you move the chain up and down it will feel resistant to movement, but if it's right you'll be able to "snap" it up and down. Better a little loose than a little tight.

There are many ways to align the wheels, My favourite is to bungee a couple of 8' fluorescent tubes to the back tire at ground level, and use them as a guide referencing the front wheel with equal gaps on either side.

A new chain will usually stretch at first. I'd guess an average of two adjustments, then it settles down. If you have to keep adjusting it, then you're probably setting it too tight.

Every 500km or thereabouts, go out the night before a ride, and wipe the chain down good with WD40. Then apply a light coating of chain lube; I usually go once around pointing the nozzle at the outside end of the links, then do it again for the inside. Let it setup overnight, and you'll have a happy healthy chain.

There. That's everything I've learned about chains since I made my own transition from Beemers to Ducs. :-) “

3.3 Owner’s Manuals

Owners manuals are available online at the ducati web site at http://www.ducati.com/bikes/manuals.jhtml.

Now you know!

3.4 Suspension Setup

3.4.1 General Setup

The information below provided by Warren Walker, Tasmania, Australia, and is attributed originally to Wayne Clarke a former racer with a great deal of experience. Thanks Warren!

BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP

Important: Before starting, back off compression and rebound settings front and rear.

REAR SPRING

Holding the bike vertical without touching front brake, lift the rear to check the sag (freeweight) of the rear spring. Measure the free sag (do not use the front brake). Ideal measurement is between 0 and 10 mm. Increasing spring pre-load will reduce sag. Measure the sag with the rider seated (no front brake) Ideal is 25mm, 20mm hard, 30 soft. Adjust spring pre-load to suit. 14mm pre-load on spring is the maximum from free load to pre-load, any more will indicate the spring is too soft. The rear spring being too soft will also be indicated by zero free sag, and excessive rider sag of 35mm or more. This is for road bikes.

FRONT SPRING

Place a cable tie around fork tube, push up to the seal. Lift up to take weight of the fork spring, have an assistant measure the difference, Ideal is 15mm-20mm for bikes under 210kg, 20mm-30mm bikes over 210kg. If the increase in fork spring pre-load has made the bike difficult to turn into corners consider raising the forks through the triple clamps (5mm at a time). Watch that the mudguard remains clear at all times under full compression, also when turned.

REAR SUSPENSION DAMPING CONTROL

Wind the rebound adjustment right in, then count out. Determine where the adjustment begins to work by pushing down on the rear of the bike and watching and feeling the way the suspension returns. Should be adjusted so that the suspension returns a little slower than when rebound adjustment is turned off. In a corner the bike should feel O/K all the way around. Should not run wide under power. Options to prevent this are to adjust rear ride height (lift up), adjust spring pre-load on rear or by raising the front forks.

FRONT FORKS

The cable tie can be used to indicate that the forks are using their full amount of travel. If the forks are using all of their travel to the point of bottoming out, consider increasing the amount of fork oil in each leg, to cushion the forks when bottoming out, (adjust the amount of oil so that approx 20mm of travel is left at full compression). Adjust rebound damping so that forks return slightly slower than with no damping. If forks are still too slow consider changing to a lighter oil. Check fork action, when forks are compressed and released, the forks should respond quickly and settle without pogoing. If the bile feels like it is wallowing, then increase the rebound damping slightly. If there is resistance (fight back) on initial compression, this may indicate too much fork oil, the air pocket remaining is too small.

FINAL CHECK

Find the centre of the bike and push down, the suspension should compress and return at the same rate front and rear. Fine tune accordingly. Check the suspension by riding and make any adjustments one at a time. When it feels O/K keep adjusting until you feel that you have gone too far and then adjust back. Keep notes on the adjustments you have made. As the suspension wears or gets hot the rebound will decrease and the springs will sag.

COMPRESSION DAMPING IS OFTEN USED TO COMPENSATE FOR SPRINGS THAT ARE TOO SOFT.

3.4.2 ST Specific Setup

From Warren: “I did leave a few little bits out (from the above section) that do not apply. My bike is set up in this way, using these instructions. The front on mine is set on 17mm free-sag, 14 clicks out rebound and no added compression damping.

As I mentioned before you need a suspension that compresses fast, returns slightly slower than it compressed and does not pogo or bounce at the end of the return. My weight is around the 72-76 kg area.

As a little exercise, remove the compression and rebound damping on the forks, bounce and feel both compression and return speed, now add some rebound damping and bounce and feel again, now add some more rebound damping, bounce and feel again.

Although you have not touched the compression damping has anything you feel changed? Sometimes when you adjust one thing it also may affect another area! The new ST2 does not have this “problem” as the suspension units have been down graded from what we have. No rebound adjustment for one.

I hope you can understand all of this and can make good use of it.”

Stock ST 4 suspension settings:

FRONT: Preload: 16 mm (Use 22mm socket); rebound damping: 11 clicks from full in; compression damping: 12 clicks from full in.

REAR: Preload: 165mm spring length (no position listed); rebound damping: 1 turn out from full in; compression damping: 1 turn out from full in.

Sport Rider (Feb. 2000) ST4 -

FRONT: Preload: 6 turns out; rebound damping: 10 clicks out from maximum; compression damping: 2 clicks out from maximum.

REAR: Preload: position 2 from full soft; rebound damping: .5 turn out; compression damping: .5 turn out.

Stock ST4s suspension settings:

FRONT: Preload: 16 mm (measured from top of 22mm nut to top of larger nut below, use 22mm socket to adjust). Rebound adjuster is located at the top of each fork (clockwise is full in and gives the most damping). Rebound damping: 11 clicks from full in.

Compression adjuster is located inside the bottom of the fork tubes (clockwise is full in and gives the most damping). Compression damping: 12 clicks from full in.

REAR: Preload adjuster is remotely located above the passenger footpeg. Preload: 149.5 mm spring length. Rebound adjuster is located at the base of the rear damper. Rebound damping: 14 clicks out from full in. (Counter-clockwise is full in when looking down at adjuster)

Note: The manual states that clockwise is full in but this assumes you are under the bike, looking up.

Compression adjuster is remotely located behind the right-rear body panel. Compression damping: 14 clicks out from full in. (clockwise is full in when looking at end of unit).

3.5 Suspension Corrective Actions

The following information comes from the Ducati web Site http://www.ducati.com/.

Here is a list of corrective actions: (the sequence of operations described below does not only concern hydraulic damping adjustment, but also includes other operations requiring the special skills of authorised engineers only)

The front wheel “bounces” or “patters” during the final part of braking:

1. If the front forks travel all the way to the end of their stroke (you can verify this by checking the position reached by a nylon clamp fixed to either stanchion), the spring should be replaced with a harder spring.

2. If the last part of the stroke is not completed, the oil level is too high (or expressed another way, the air volume (gap to the oil level) is insufficient.

3. If, however, the forks work by travelling to the end of their stroke, but performance is, nonetheless, good in corners, the oil level should be increased.

4. If, in corners, the steering feels light and riding generally feels unsafe, change the spring for a harder spring and leave the oil level unchanged.

The front wheel “bounces” (the so-called “pattering”) or “vibrates” when riding into corners, until the front brake lever is released or until power is transmitted to the rear wheel:

1. increase the spring preloading

2. replace the springs with harder springs

3. try decreasing the oil level

4. you may want to decrease the rear shock absorber spring preloading or reduce the rear end ride height (chassis set-up will form the object of the next paper)

The front wheel is unsteady and feels unsafe half-way through corners, between the end of the braking action and the beginning of throttle opening

1. increase rebound damping

2. this problem could also be caused by excessive rebound damping: try reducing it considerably

3. excessive compression damping: try slightly reducing it.

The front wheel loses grip riding out of corners

1. increase the rebound damping

2. excessive spring preloading: try reducing it

3. replace the rear shock absorber spring with a harder spring

4. raise the fork sleeves (or stanchions) through the top and bottom yokes to lower the front end ride height

The rear wheel has too little grip

1. if this problem becomes apparent in the early stages of throttle opening, it could be caused by excessive rear end ride height

2. excessive rear shock absorber spring preloading: decrease it

3. excessive compression damping: decrease it

4. another possible cause is excessive rebound damping, especially if you experience “bouncing” when travelling over bumps.

3.6 Battery removal

Many (all!) owners complain about the tedious process of removing the fairing just because you want to do some work on the battery.

Vincent gives us his secret to removing the battery without having to remove the fairing:

“I made a small modification on my ST2 to be able to remove the battery without removing more the lower right part of the fairing. Just drill a 25mm diameter hole in the horizontal part of the dark grey cover in the right upper part of the fairing. With such a hole, you’re able to reach the + contact of the battery and remove it. This hole is fully invisible. You can then remove the battery, in less than five minutes.”

3.7 Oil changes

Engine oil level can be checked through the sight glass on the right hand side of the motor. Oil level should be checked when the bike is warm, and the oil has had a chance to settle after the engine has stopped.

Owners have varying opinions on how often to change the oil on their bike (some change at 1500k, some at 5000k) - the general rule is that oil is cheap: Change it more frequently than the service intervals, and always use a new filter when you replace the oil.

Instructions from Mike:

“Remove the sump plug with the correct size allen key ?? 10mm. Remove and clean the mesh filter on the side of the engine. When everything has drained put 'em back on. When you refill take it really easy or you will over-fill the sump (this is the only fiddly bit). When the oil is near the bottom of the sight glass - go and make a coffee and come back 10 minutes later - it will probably be higher. Before topping up to the brim, run the engine (provided the sight glass is, say half full), make another coffee, let it all settle. By now you will probably need a slash, then check the level again. I found more oil appeared from nowhere! I think you are probably getting the picture - take the last few ccs really slowly.”

Many owners find that it’s good practice to follow these few tips when changing oil:

Lubricate the seal on the new filter with a smear of oil to aid hand tightening
Fill the filter with oil prior to fitting, to assist oil flow when the bike is restarted
Don’t overfill - when adding oil, it takes time for the oil to settle in the sight glass. Add small amounts and wait. Patience is important when it comes to changing oil on these bikes!

The following story comes from Sean and is worth reading:

“Please help other learn from my mistake: how to turn a 30 minute job into 4 hours

Oil change time for my 2001 ST2 I search the web for 'better oil filters' and find recommendations for Per-Form. I order 4 (min quantity) and proceed to change the oil. Your numbers are correct 10 mm for the drain plug and 14 mm for both the primary filter cap and the primary filter. Take out the per-form filter, ohoh its ~ 19 mm longer than stock but no big deal the fairing touches but just barely so I finish the oil change put everything back together and heat the bike up to 170 when the filter starts to leak. This is odd since I’m a reasonably competent mechanic. I’m not sure how I screwed up an oil filter replacement. I tighten the filter up another 1/4 turn and it still leaks so I figure I have a bad filter or bad gasket. Take everything back out and re do the job with another brand new per-form filter (# DUC-1) and get the same result. I drop everything again and inspect the per-form against stock. The per-form is indeed longer but in addition the distance from the plane of the gasket face down to the threads that catch the filter stud is 5 mm the Ducati stock filter is 2mm! After a 2 hour round trip to my dealer for stock filters I finished the job in 15 minutes with no problems. I’m not sure why the per-form leak as the filter still catches a thread and a half on the stud but they do.

Long story short, please let other ST2 owners know to stick with the Ducati stock oil filter

I’m sending my per-forms back to see if they will refund my money”

3.8 Handy Service bits

3.8.1 Bolt Sizes

What

Size

Comment

Oil screen access bolt

14mm allen for the cap, and the screen itself is threaded into the block, and requires the same size allen (14mm) to remove it.

From Sue. !) To use Sue’s words: “These suckers were on there TIGHT”.

Front axle nut size

28mm

Front axle needs to be take out to remove the font wheel.

3.8.2 Cam Belts

Later style cam belts are reinforced with Kevlar instead of fibreglass. The Kevlar reinforced belts can be identified by the red lettering on them. Other color lettering indicates and older belt.

3.8.3 Other hints

· Beware of some after market oil filters, as they may not may not fit if longer than stock Ducati filter. They hit the fairing. Don’t believe me? Read this section about oil changes.

· Well nuts are available from Fast by Ferracci in 4x1, 5x1 and 6x1

3.9 ECU Mixture Adjustment

Some owners like to fiddle with the mixture on their bikes, preferring them to run slightly richer. As with everything in the FAQ, there’s no recommendation on whether you do this or not - it’s your call. If in doubt, don’t fix something which works, or seek advice from qualified people.

There’s a trimmer pot on the ECU which controls the mixture. Owners who have changed the mixture report that turning Counter Clockwise will richen, and clockwise will lean out the mixture.

There’s a great deal of information on FIM’s website - check it out before changing anything.

http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/

Some feedback from List Members (names deliberately withheld):

“From my experience, 45 degrees is a major change to the trim, 90 degrees being enough to make the difference between a sweet running engine, and one that is either too lean or too rich to run properly at all. CCW for rich.”

“I was always taught to turn the bike off and wait until you hear the click from the switch in the CPU (5-30 sec.) or you can cook the CPU. Don't know validity of this but that is what they taught me when I worked at the shop. Always use a pot trim screwdriver also so you don't ground out anything. “

“I have been playing with the setting on mine and have gone 90deg from stock setting and back. More grunt and less mileage when 90deg more is added to richen things up and the bike will run 5-10F cooler with the richer settings. “

3.10 Steering Head Bearings

The following tip on how to check your Steering head Bearings comes from John (aka Takka):

“If you put your bike onto the centre stand and have someone put their weight on the rear to lift the front wheel. You then grab the bottom of the front legs & pull backwards & forward. If there is any movement or you can feel a clonk in the forks then you need to adjust the head bearing. You will need to loosen the cap head bolts holding the lower triple tree to the fork & loosen the caphead bolt that locks the cap you describe in your post. You will then need a tool that will either fit neatly into the slot on the same cap or the tool that fits the circle of holes, you then pre load the bearing by tightening the cap clockwise. If it feels real bad you may want to remove the steering head yoke & check the bearings. There is a torque value for that in the w/shop manual it's 30nm. Do not over tighten the preload otherwise the bike will not handle.”

From Dave Harhay:

“I just finished inspecting the 03ST4s steering head bearings. Like everyone says… there's not a lot of grease on them. FYI there is a seal, so the chance of water and crud getting into the bearings is small. I am not sure of the other models however. I put in a liberal amount and retorqued the special nut.”

3.11 Thermostat

Checking the thermostat, from John Dean (in response to an overheating problem reported by a member):

“First, it's a bypassing thermostat exactly like the one used in almost all Italian cars. It's hooked up to the hoses in the cooling system, lying on the left side of the engine just in front of the engine case. What it looks like is an aluminium casting with three pipes coming out of it. The pipes are hooked up to the hoses.

The way it works is that when cold, the water pump circulates fluid through the bypass section, without sending anything to the radiator. Thus, the coolant circulates all the time. When warm, the valve opens to allow coolant to flow through the radiator, and closes the bypass.

To check the system, you really have to have the fairings off.

First, take off the radiator cap to check the fluid level. Look in the radiator -- the fluid should be right up to the top. Fill the system, if necessary. The plastic bottle should drain when you remove the radiator cap. If it does not, then the little tube from the bottle to the radiator is blocked.

Start the eng